Shaping the Neckline on a Round Yoke (Knitting Short Rows)

Knitting a back neck shaping (short-row shaping) in garments with a circular yoke is of great practical importance and has a significant impact on the overall fit of the garment.

First, the back neck shaping compensates for the anatomical difference between the front and the back. For most people, the back requires more length than the front, and without this shaping, a circular-yoke garment tends to ride up at the back or feel tight at the front of the neck.

Second, the back neck shaping provides greater wearing comfort. Thanks to the additional length at the back, the neckline sits more naturally, does not creep upward, and does not create a feeling of tightness, especially around the shoulders and neck.

Third, the back neck shaping improves the visual fit of the garment. A sweater or cardigan looks more balanced: the yoke sits beautifully on the shoulders, does not twist, and the garment as a whole looks more professional and refined.

Here I describe the method I use to work the back neck shaping.

Following the established pattern, knit approximately to the middle of one sleeve, then turn the work to the wrong side. Slip 1 stitch purl-wise to right needle, leading the working yarn in back of the stitch, above the right needle. Tighten the working yarn so that the stitch on the right needle sits on the needle with two legs visible (Double stitch). Continue working on the wrong side of the fabric following the established pattern. Work to the middle of another sleeve, turn work to right side. Slip 1 stitch knit-wise to right needle, leading the working yarn in back of the stitch, above the right needle. Tighten the working yarn so that the stitch on the right needle sits on the needle with two legs visible (Double stitch). Continue working on the right side of the fabric.

Next Row 1: work in established pattern to 5 sts before the Double Stitch, turn work to wrong side. Slip 1 stitch purl-wise to right needle, leading the working yarn in back of the stitch, above the right needle. Tighten the working yarn so that the stitch on the right needle sits on the needle with two legs visible (Double stitch). Continue working on the wrong side of the following the established pattern.

Row 2: work in established pattern to 5 sts before the Double Stitch, turn work to right side. Slip 1 stitch knit-wise to right needle, leading the working yarn in back of the stitch, above the right needle. Tighten the working yarn so that the stitch on the right needle sits on the needle with two legs visible (Double stitch). Continue working on the right side of the fabric.

Repeat Rows 1 and 2 as many times as necessary to reach approximately 2/3 of the desired neckline depth.

Next Row 3: work in established pattern to 7 sts before the Double Stitch, turn work to wrong side. Slip 1 stitch purl-wise to right needle, leading the working yarn in back of the stitch, above the right needle. Tighten the working yarn so that the stitch on the right needle sits on the needle with two legs visible (Double stitch). Continue working on the wrong side of the fabric following the established pattern.

Row 4: work in established pattern to 7 sts before the Double Stitch, turn work to right side. Slip 1 stitch knit-wise to right needle, leading the working yarn in back of the stitch, above the right needle. Tighten the working yarn so that the stitch on the right needle sits on the needle with two legs visible (Double stitch). Continue working on the right side of the fabric.

Repeat Rows 3 and 4 until the desired neckline depth is reached.

Turn work to right side again, and resume working in the round, knitting both legs of the Double Stitch together as one when you encounter them.